Twisted Sticks November 2007 Newsletter
 
Halloween .
Well at least the weather held off for the Trick or Treaters and it did not rain.  We had about 25 ghosts, goblins and other scary creatures at my house. 
The weather for flying has sucked.  There was one day in the last couple of weeks when the weather looked great, but I had prior commitments.  RATS.
 
Putting up your airplane(s) for the winter.
Like most things in this hobby everyone has an opinion and some are conflicting ones, imagine that.  :)
 
I store my airplanes horizontally on PVC piping hung from the ceiling like Dale does.  Guess where I got the idea.  There are other opinions to store the airplane vertically.  One thought being to store it hanging from the propeller.  Opponents say that this will drain the oil from the engine front bearing leaving it prone to rust.  Let's look at the reverse hanging from the tail.  Proponents say this insures lube to the front bearings and the camshaft bearing on OS and Saito four strokes.  Opponents say that un-burnt fuel left in the engine contains acids that will cause rust on those same bearings.  Also there is the possibility of the fuel tank clunk getting lodged in the front of the tank.  For every action in this hobby there is an equal and opposite opinion.  Don't you just love it.
 
Let's start with un-burnt fuel.  Simply run your engine dry at low RPM after your last flight at the field.  After it quits, restart it until it won't run anymore.  Using fuel with some Caster oil in it will also helps prevent rust.  The stuck clunk can usually be freed by shaking the aircraft in a horizontal direction.  If it is free you'll hear it moving.
Prevent bearing rusting by using ATF or your choice of after run oil before storage.  Squirt some in the glow plug hole and the carburetor while turning the prop to make sure you doesn't get so much in that you create a hydraulic lock.  If you've got a four stroke remove the valve cover and squirt ATF down the pushrod tubes to lubricate the camshaft.  Also squirt some up the vent hose - all the while slowly turn the prop by hand, this coats the bearings.  Put the glow plug back in.  Before the first flight remove the plug and turn the motor by hand.  If it's free use a starter on it to blow excess oil out from the cylinder.  If it is not free simply turn the motor over upside down and wait for the excess to run out.  Don't force it you bend the rod.
 
Batteries are best unplugged and stored in a zip lock bag in the refrigerator.  If the wife objects put the zip locked batteries in a plastic container.  It looks neater and protects the packs, then remind her how much new battery packs cost.  :)  If putting your packs in the refrigerator is too much trouble just make sure the switches are turned off and store the planes in a cool place. 
 
Next year before the first flight charge the packs at C/10 for 16 hours, usually you can use the wall wart charger that come with your transmitter.  This will equalize the pack for fast charging later.  I'll always test the pack for capacity.  I've written the last capacity measurements on the pack previously and what discharge rate and cutoff voltage level was used.  If the pack tests below 80% capacity or is older than 3 years I replace it. 
 
I firmly believe in using welded factory packs and not soldering my own.  Your opinion may vary.  I believe that extra expense is worth not loosing a plane because the plastic seal melted and the battery dried out.  I've been soldering since I was 12 years old.  I know how to solder I just do not feel the risk is worth it.  It is also the reason I use a Voltwatch on all of my planes.  We had a member have a maiden that resulted in a crash because his receiver batteries were not fully charged
 
Everything I've said about receiver packs also applies to your transmitter packs. 
 
I believe one of your best investments in this hobby is a good charger.  I use a Triton.  It will charge lead acid flight box batteries, NiCad, NiMH and LiPO packs and discharge all of then as well.  I use it to keep track of my packs performance.  I also have a dual voltage lab grade power supply so I can form new battery packs at C/10 or 1/10 the capacity the pack is rated for by the manufacture. 
 
If you are using larger than normal packs like 1500 mAh NiMh pack you really should consider a form charger like the Sirius Pro Former Charger for $50.00.  Nickel Metal Hydride packs especially needs to be formed before they develop their maximum charging capacity.
 
Election nominations.
Nominations for club officers are this month.  At last months meeting Al Bouda said he would stay on as Treasurer if needed.  Barry said all the present officers were already drafted and had no choice but to serve out the rest of their sentences.  (I might have used a little poetic license with that quote.  :).  I'm sure however if you want to throw your hat in the ring you'll probably be elected.  Club officers have long hours no pay, no respect etc.  :)