|
Twisted Sticks June 2006 Newsletter Procrastination does finally catch up with you. As those of you who attended last month's meeting know I've a new transmitter. It is a Tracker III from Polk Hobbies. I have the GP Shoestring 60, the CP Venus 40 and CG Bucker Jungman ready to fly. The batteries have been cycled, the linkages, landing gear and hinges have been checked - everything was ready to go, except for programming the new transmitter. I put it off for a week and then found out I was scheduled to fly to our Dumas plant. I spent six days - most of a week down there but figured I still had a half day left to do the transmitter programming before the holiday. I was scheduled to arrive in GR at 1:30 PM. Then the Little Rock airport's new fangled self serve computer terminal spit out the result that my flight from Detroit to Grand Rapids was over booked! So being the computer geek that I am I figured no problem, I'll just use the handy dandy terminal. Wrong. There wasn't a problem changing my connections, it just cost an additional $100.00 and a slight time adjustment for the take off time of the new flight. The original flight was scheduled to take off from Little Rock at 6:30 AM, the new takeoff time was for 4:30 PM. I spent 11 hours sitting in Little Rock's terminal. Yuck! Hey, the good part was that I spent the weekend helping my Mother-in-Law out, she's better looking than you guys are anyway! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model Preflight Checklist - Especially if you check someone else's' plane. Fuselage Check all the servos. The brass thimble should be against the wood side not the screw side. If it is backward against the screw the open end of the thimble will cut the wood used to mount the servo. Note if using Hitec plastic geared servos do not use any thread locker - the plastic will over time disintegrate. Use thread lock only on metal to metal surfaces. Check the servo body mounting screws for tightness, however don't tighten them so tight the rubber mounts can't flex or you'll loose vibration protection and could experience early servo failure. Check the servo arm mounting screw for tightness. Check for slop in the push rod connection to the servo and again at the opposite end of the push rod. Check for possible fouling of the push rods. If using rod in tube or snakes are they fastened securely every six inches so they don't bow causing erratic movement of the control surfaces. Check for binding at the ends of the servo for over travel. An easy way to do this is to plug in a GP volt watch to the receiver and watch for a dip in the reading or a hum coming from the end of the servo indicating binding. Tug on the control surfaces to make sure the hinges are adequately glued. Remove the clevis to check for binding. Check the landing gear. Are the mounting bolts tight? Check the wheels for free rotation. Are the wheel collars tight? Check to see if you have a slight - 2 degree toe out. Check that the receiver and battery are padded and secure. Dale recommends always using short extensions for the wing servos so that you don't plug directly into the receiver. He also recommends having the rubber padding covering the servo leads or using some other method so the leads can't come loose during flight. Check the fuel tank Is the tank area fuel-proofed? Turn the airplane upside down and shake. Can you still hear the clunk rattle in the tank? After fueling check for leaks. Wings Check the servo body mounting screws for tightness, however don't tighten them so tight the rubber mounts can't flex or you'll loose vibration protection and could experience early servo failure. Check the servo arm mounting screw for tightness. Check for slop in the push rod connection to the servo and again at the opposite end of the push rod. Check that the clevises are snapped. It is a good idea to use piece of fuel tubing for a keeper. Is the lock nut tightened. Check to see that in neutral both ailerons are neutral to the wing or reflexed slightly up the same amount - never down. Tug on the control surfaces to make sure the hinges are adequately glued. Remove the clevis to check for binding. Has the center section of the wing been adequately reinforced? If a trainer, check the rubber band dowels - are they adequately glued. Is the wing free of warps?Check for proper incidence. Does the wing appear square to the tail? Balance Balance the airplane with the tank empty, usually right side up for a high wing and upside down for a low wing. Balance the airplane laterally. Engine Is the prop tight and free of nicks or cracks? Tug on the engine and inspect the mounting bolts. Does it feel tightly mounted to the fire wall? Has the motor been broken in or is it new? Run it a litttle rich. Is the carburetor needle bar even with the middle of the tank? Are the fuel lines in good shape and tight? Make sure the exhaust line is connected to the tank. Does it idle and transition well, and hold a high RPM? Hold the plane vertically at full throttle; if it stalls richen the high speed needle. Radio Do a full range check with the antenna down and the engine running. Stand behind the aircraft and check movement of all controls for centering. If you move the rudder stick the rudder should follow in the same direction as the stick. If you move the aileron stick the aileron should move up in the same direction of the stick. If it has a front wheel the wheel should turn in the same direction as the rudder. Receiver Battery Make sure it is charged. I believe in using a GP Voltwatch, but they are only good under a load or just after landing. To check the aircraft battery move the sticks in all directions for at least a minute. If you are not using a Voltwatch do a loaded voltmeter test for a minute.
Next meeting is at the field June 8th 7 PM or Ken's if it's the weather is just too nasty.
|